Oil Change

[Skeletor]

Doomworlders, I need your perspective on oil change service centers.

I don't know anything about cars. All I know is that you stick a key in the keyhole and you start the engine and one pedal moves the car and one pedal stops the car and the wheel thingy can guide you in a certain direction.

So, when one of the service techs comes in while the others work on the oil change, they recommend this and that. Power steering fluid, transmission fluid, cabin filter, etc.

How much of this is actually necessary? What's the markup in price? Some of these things, if necessary cost up to $100+.

I'd like to think most of the places are honest but it's every 2-3 changes where it seems like you're replacing the same damn thing again.

Can someone who knows more about cars tell me what really is necessary?

[chexwarrior]

Be careful... I can't say I'm an expert with cars, but I'll tell you something my dad told me once:

"The only way you can be sure your not getting ripped off is to fix the car yourself."

They recommended? You need to ask them if its essential. Do you have anyone you know and trust that is good with cars? One more thing, buy the Haynes Manual for your car, they are extremely helpful.

[Philnemba]

I have just recently change my oil with my father just an hour ago and its a whole lot cheaper if you buy some oil and an oil filter and simply do it yourself(if you can't do it yourself, then goggle a "how to change oil guide" thing).

[Maes]

Skeletor said:

I don't know anything about cars. All I know is that you stick a key in the keyhole and you start the engine and one pedal moves the car and one pedal stops the car and the wheel thingy can guide you in a certain direction.

And who are you, Banana Joe perhaps?

On topic, the mechanics are usually just trying to fatten the deal on their side as much as possible. I never attempted changing the oil myself but it should be easy if you have the right gear (basin, appropriate wrenches, oil filter wrench, greasemonkey trolley etc.

From what I've seen though, in some cars changing the oil filter can be tricky, as it requires removing some shit to reach it, while in others it's easier. Plus, you need to collect and dispose of the oil yourself and have a place where you can work on the car in good conditions (your own garage, lawn, or at least a flat parking spot in front of your house.

[Technician]

I usually change my oil twice a year. Perhaps a local mechanic would give you the best deal.

I never change my oil. For the fee and the amount of time I actually change the oil, I feel the little extra for labor is expendable. Most of todays cars (Cars up to twenty years old) locate the oil filter in some of the most crowded and hard areas to to put it. Changing the plugs of my Firebird requires I practically tear the engine bay apart.

[Super Jamie]

Having built engines from component pieces and rebuilt most parts of a car, I can tell you that you really do need to top up or renew all these things sooner or later.

As for what is the best for your car, the manual will have service life recommendations for these consumables, usually based on distance traveled, and hopefully your mechanic has been writing down when they've done certain things.

If your manual suggests to replace something every 20000 miles, but the service log shows it was done 5000 miles ago, you're obviously being ripped off. However if the log shows it was done 40000 miles ago, it's in your best interest to have new stuff put in.

If you don't understand any of this, then ask around people you know, find a workshop in the area who you can trust and take your car exclusively to them. Like Maes said, people can try to charge you for things you don't need and make a bit of extra money, though sometimes your car is in genuine need of a bit more servicing.

Paying a little extra for a decent mechanic is a far better option than paying dirt-cheap prices for a crap mechanic who will sell you a bunch of stuff you don't need and probably end up costing you more anyway.

[Jello]

I used to change my own oil, then I realized it was an ass ache, and I ended up spending about as much on oil, a filter, and disposal as I did when I went to a shop. Plus I didn't have to screw up my back. The fluids definitely need to be monitored though, power steering, brake, transmission, and what have you. But those can be done on your own, and quite easily, so I wouldn't pay extra for them. The only time I've had them recommend replacing something while doing an oil change is the air filter, because for some reason I forget about that damn thing, and they usually charge slightly above normal cost for it. Which is acceptable, I don't need to go do it myself. Any other major repairs they say are needed, if you know what you're doing examine it yourself, or find an acquaintance who can take a look. Failing that, take it to a reputable mechanic and see what they think, but I probably wouldn't leave the final say-so to a guy changing your oil. Then again, they may know exactly what they're talking about, and it may need to get fixed immediately. I hate vehicles. I'm glad my Dad was a mechanic for 20 years though, if I can't figure something out he'll take a look free of charge.

[Mr. Freeze]

I change my oil once every 5-6 months depending. As the so of a mechanic, I can safely say that power steering fluid, transmission fluid etc., are all going to need replacing at some point. However, mechanics are always trying to make an extra buck. Take their recommendations with a grain of salt.

[Enjay]

Oil needs to be changed regularly. Some other things can last almost indefinitely. eg, transmission fluid lasts a very long time and most of the time you merely have to check that it is up to the right level (which it usually is).

Personally, I enjoy doing that kind of stuff myself because I'm a bit of a petrolhead and enjoy doing it. However, I can understand the reluctance to do it if you're not comfortable with working on a car.

[Gez]

Maes said:

I never attempted changing the oil myself but it should be easy if you have the right gear (basin, appropriate wrenches, oil filter wrench, greasemonkey trolley etc.

And if you either have the gear needed to collect the used-up oil and transport it to the appropriate treatment facility; or don't mind polluting like mad and the environmental regulations in your country are crappy enough to let you do so without paying fines that'll make the "fattened deal" of the mechanics look like chump change.

Engine oil contains several heavy metals and other toxic additives, such as beryllium. Some of them are picked up from the engine itself, others are part of the oil to begin with.

[Maes]

Well, I never suggested dropping it in your backyard: once I had some dirty chain oil drip down from my bike's chain on the lawn, and it left a sterile straight patch that lasted 2-3 months, until the rain diluted it enough. And that was pretty thin and very little oil...

I guess I could use some used oil as a heavy-duty weed killer if you don't mind that NOTHING will grow back again on that spot ;-)

[DooMikE]

Can someone who knows more about cars tell me what really is necessary?

Not in a non-roundabout way, but bear with me, the intention is only the best.

While reading this thread Dead Kennedys "Trust your mechanic" started playing in my head...

I don´t know much about American cars, but i do know my car-basics.

Concerning the engine-oil:

The expression "dipstick" is really not a dirty word. It´s a stick used to measure the level of oil in the engine and one you´re better off checking once every month or so. If you notice oil-stains under your car regularily, you´ll need to check it even more...regularily.

How to check: Car needs to be parked level, turned off for at least a half hour. Pull out dipstick and wipe in cloth/paper, push it ALL the way back in and ALL the way out again and read your score, hopefully between the min. and max. marks.

No need to put any oil in unless you´re below the minimum reading on the thing. And mind you, more than maximum is just as bad!

Oil needs to be changed "regularily". There are no exact rule of thumb, it depends on quite a few things like: the type of oil, how new is the engine, how are you driving and so on.

The best type of oil is the full synthetic -type, which "ought" to be changed after appx. 10000 miles, where a mineral -type or a blend between the two, gives you just 6-7000 miles. In some cases you can double those figures, but as mentioned that depends on "things".

You are actually able to see whether the oil is good: Take out the dipstick and wipe a drop off on a white non-absorbant surface, if it´s totally black and grainy and smelling "old" you´ll need to change it. Soon. (Edit: an old worn engine usually makes the oil look and smell "old" pretty fast, making it hard to "read")

To see the difference, do the same when the oil is new. It´s clear.

You ought to have the oil-filter changed every time you change oil.

The other engine fluids usually doesn´t need changing, just checking. Most are in semi-clear containers with visible min./max. markers and shouldn´t be messed with by other than professionals, ie: a mechanic.

Brake fluid: never touch it! Servo fluid: never touch it! Cooling fluid and alternate hydraulic oils: don´t mess with them!

If any of these types of oil needs re-filling, something is wrong with the system, as they´re all within air-tight, sealed systems and it´s probably going to cost a fair share of $$$ to fix, but it needs to be fixed to avoid a critical failure at a possible critical moment.

You can always get a second opinion from another mechanic, if you suspect a hustle is up...

Good luck!