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Post your Doom textures!

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I'm not good at making graphics, but here i go regardless.

Freedom Metal Variants:


I use a lot of trims when mapping, top ones are 64x64 flats, bottom are walls, but you can still mix and match :p.

Asian Stuff:

Random crap copper bricks.

All is free for commercial use.

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LOL at that crate Memfis!

Posted before, but this is a better place for them, here are a couple of marbles. One's a new marbface, the other a seamless version of marble1.


I might post more later I suppose.

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Slightly fixed up brown tekwall (a previously missing corner is filled with tekwallness, less garbage colors):

Black tekwalls, polished and tiling:

My version of BROWN144:

Metal things:

Oldschool starwalls:

Oldschool door:

Console switch recolors:

Console stone computers:


Updated consoles:

New and different (well, not really) lights:

Tiles that don't repeat:

There's more, but it's so tedious to share things this way. Maybe I should make a texture pack or something.

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Not as awesome as the other textures, but...
here's an experiment i did some time ago using a free texture from a website asa a base...

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Brown E4 sky + Deimos mountains with possibly yellow snow. Basically recoloured TVR! E2.
Made it for my DMP2016 map but odds are I'll abandon that, so may as well put this here.

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Some IWAD edits from me:
(all original, made with IrfanView and MS Paint)

LITE3/5 as flats:

DOORSTOP that tiles vertically:

Same for SUPPORT2:


Green FLOOR0_1:

Yellow BLITx0 patches (hint: LITEBLU4 texture), adjusted for Doom palette:

And my absolutely favourite one, 128x128 BIGDOOR6:

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Not really, that one was done by taking part of the original MARBFACE from the Romero texture dump. I don't suppose it'd be too hard to take the horns from ZZZFACE and stick 'em on, though.

Here's the original piece of the composite:

And here's my edit, which basically just mirrors it and cleans up a few pixels to get rid of some unpleasant resizing (I assume) artifacts:

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Some COMPSTA textures I edited for my megawad:

Additional green marble textures:

Replacing STEP flats:

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I'm gonna hijack this thread to post some texture editing tips that people can use with just MS Paint and a basic photo editing program like Irfanview. They might not be the best, but they're pretty approachable and easy to do for people who aren't very familiar with working with Doom textures.

Recoloring Textures

If you've used a graphic editing program that lets you manipulate the RGB hues of an image to recolor textures before, you may have found that it can be tough to get the exact color you want. You've probably learned the hard way that Doom doesn't have very many shades of the same color, and so recoloring alone with a graphic editing utility will yield some pretty flat results. For example, if you recolored BROWN96 to brown, it would look less like it's original form and more like a piece of chocolate.

To get your colors to appear right in the Doom pallete, like the ones you see in Doom, you'll have to look a little closer.

Many textures in Doom aren't made with one shade, but rather a dithered mix of various shades. BROWN96 for example, which most people describe as a "brown texture" is actually mostly made up of gray. There's brown sprinkled all over it, mostly near the top, where the texture is brighter, and if you look closely, there's a little bit of dark green seasoned to taste in there as well.

So how do you make textures look like that without individually editing the texture pixel by pixel? I recolor the same texture with a variety of shades. Gray is often a good shade to have on hand. Almost everything looks good with a little gray in it. Keep the colors somewhat similar and of the same brightness (colors that are even slightly brighter or darker than one another will be too apparent and mess up the illusion)

Then I use the airbrush tool to blast white noise on all but one of the images. You can use a variety of tools to scribble around on it, such as the paint brush or pencil tool. The more randomness, the better, for your first try. Try to get a lot of it but be careful not to get everything or the difference will be almost unnoticeable.

Then select (using select with transparent background and white as your secondary paint color) each airbrushed texture by its exact and entire dimensions (in this case, its 128x128) and layer them on top of the untouched texture one after the other. It's important to be careful that you line the pixels up perfectly, or the texture can come out very sloppy. If you have jittery hands, its possible to leave your untouched texture in the top left corner of the image, select the airbrushed textures, and cut and paste them one at a time. I think by default, Paint will drop the pasted texture on the top left directly where you want to be, so you can just unselect it and move on to the next one instead of manually lining it up yourself.

^So I made some kinda jungle camouflage marble texture thats of no particular use to me at the moment, but notice how it now seems like a totally different color than what I started with, and still works perfectly well within the Doom pallete. With practice you can use the same method for a variety of cool stuff:

-Nukage Trim
-Blood Splats

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Minor Edits

You don't have to do pixel by pixel editing to make good textures!

Editing individual pixels is a pain. It's difficult to be precise, very easy to make mistakes, and you'll consume a lot of time trying to correct things. It also has a tendency to make things look kinda "gamey" unless you're really good at it. If you've had very little practice, you're better off doing things this way:

Let's say you want the light from the Doom 2 stock texture on the left to be on the wall on the right. You'll need to copy and past the light over from one to the other, but you'll also need the brightness radiating from the light to shine on the rocks on the left. The pattern is different, so obviously you're going to have to manually edit the lighting in yourself.

Instead of racking your brain trying to put the right shade of pixels on every surface to get that perfect light gradient you want, it's much easier to simply scale the texture up, making it quadruple the size, and then scale it down when your done.

So now that the image is blown up, use the freeform select tool to select around the light and copy and paste it over to the other texture. We scaled the image up so it didn't matter if you are perfectly precise. Just get the general shape of the light.

Now that the light is on the texture, we're halfway there. The other thing we have to do is account for the brightness around the light. Use the medicine dropper tool to grab a color from the light that is closest in brightness to the surrounding rocks, but not the same brightness or darker. Use the air brush tool to brighten up the surrounding rocks. The cracks in between are deep so they should stay dark.

Then get a brighter color and use the pencil tool for a little more precision. Highlight the edges of the rocks that are pointing towards the light. Lay it on thick on the edges that are closer to the light, and use dotted lines on edges that are further away.

Now that we have the light and the surrounding brightness on the surrounding image, our texture is mostly complete. Now the important thing to remember about scaling images up and down, is that when the image is resampled, the image tends to blur together, causing a loss of depth. This is okay for the parts we edited, because it's sloppy anyway. However we can lose the integrity of the original texture we edited.

So scale the new texture down to its original size and place it on the canvass next to the original texture for comparison.

Use the freeform select tool to select the part of the texture that we edited. We only want to use the modified parts of the texture and leave the rest alone. Copy/paste it over on top of the original texture so that the only resampled part of the image is of the part we edited.

Not bad!

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40oz said:

Editing individual pixels is a pain. It's difficult to be precise, very easy to make mistakes, and you'll consume a lot of time trying to correct things. It also has a tendency to make things look kinda "gamey" unless you're really good at it.

Only if you work with the palette directly. This is a bit too "advanced" perhaps, but true color editing doesn't require bumping the resolution, and you can avoid blurring. Just for the record.

Nice tips in general.

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I can't really make new textures, draw stuff and the such, but I believe I am good at editing existing textures.
Here's a Hell Baron head, based off the marble texture.

Feel free to use it in WADS of your own, I'd like to see that.

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