Single Status Update
Yeah, try saying that mouthful ... well, at all. But nevertheless, it's where I'll be going in about three weeks. It's one of the very few settlements in East Greenland, one of the world's most sparsely populated and isolated areas.
I'll be travelling on the Professor Molchanov, an ice-strengthened Russian former research vessel.
Certain to see: fjords (the world's biggest fjord system, in fact), glaciers, ice bergs (of many types and sizes), remains of old inuit settlements, modern-day inuit, lots of sea birds.
A good chance of seeing: aurora borealis, musk ox, other wildlife.
A good chance of failing to see: whales, polar bears.
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View out across Mikis Fjord, shortly after starting off on a hike across boulders and streams.
That can be no other than the Professor Molchanov itself. How did you disembark to the ice, by boat?
Another iceberg (quite a large one) in Kangerdlugssuaq, this time resembling a rodent.
The Rat God! Scarcely last night I heard the gnawing in the walls.
That can be no other than the Professor Molchanov itself.
Yes, that sinister Russian ship followed us around everywhere.
How did you disembark to the ice, by boat?
Yes, all landings were by Zodiac. The ship has five of these inflatable rubber crafts (which figure in several of the photos). They were lowered by crane into the water, together with the driver, who brought them round to the side of the ship. We then walked down some steps on the outside of the ship and boarded the Zodiacs. When making a landing, the Zodiac was driven up onto a beach, and the driver jumped out, and held the Zodiac in place as best he could, while the passengers hopped out. Good rubber ("Wellington") boots were needed for this, as you were normally jumping out into several inches of water at least. The Zodiac was then tied up, generally to a big rock, or using a grappling hook and attaching it to whatever looked most secure. Launching them involved the driver pushing them out into the water and making a running jump to get on board. Obviously there is a lot of scope for things to go wrong in all of this.