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DuckReconMajor

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  1. Okay for a while I've been trying to pick out parts to build me an gaming rig. Right now what I'm going for is to be able to play Bad Company 2 in 1680x1050 on medium settings at 60 fps. Here's my preliminary list:

    cpu
    video card
    monitor
    hard drive
    motherboard
    ram
    case
    power supply
    disk drive
    os

    Right now, with shipping and stuff, this would run me about $1100. I know I could probably spend much less, but I'm still new to this. I know I could probably go cheaper on some of the components but if I'm going to have a 5770 in there I want to treat her right.

    Any suggestions?

    edit: changed to am3 processor, ddr3 ram, caviar black hard drive, corsair power supply

    1. Show previous comments  26 more
    2. Super Jamie

      Super Jamie

      Use a power supply calculator to work out how much actual wattage you need under max load, and get something at least 25% better than that. I dunno about Corsair, but the three good Antec models (TruePower, NeoPower, EarthWatts) remain in their efficiency range up to their sticker rating and can supply ~100W more without breaking a sweat. I have one of these, total overkill for my shitbox but awesome future-proof investment.

      Fact: DDR2 is more efficient if operating at bus speeds 800MHz and below. DDR3 is more efficient if operating faster. Base your choice off this, plus the fact that a DDR3/AM3 board is likely to have USB3 which will be cool when fast thumbdrives become available.

      I have two WD Green Powers and they are fine. Faster than the other 2-yearold Seagate 7200RPM drives I have. They operate at a fixed spindle speed per model (ie: all 1Tb drives run at the same speed, all 2Tb drives run at the same speed, but a different speed to 1Tb drives) which WD do not disclose but acoustic testing shows them all to operate between 5000 and 7200rpm. Blacks are faster. If you're going multiple drives, I'd get a Black for OS/apps and Green for data storage.

      The case is listed as Unavailable so I can't see the price, but how good is it? After purchasing an Antec P182B I can't stress how nice it is to have a really good, quiet, cool case. This particular one has the drives in a separate air area to the rest, this is important to me as it gets really hot here and I was starting to cook drives during summer. It's a $200 case but so worth it.

      Nice CPU, not sure I'm sold on the mobo. There's probably a better Asus or Gigabyte board out there for only a few bucks more. Read overclocker reviews on these. Even if you're not overclocking, you want something that's capable and resistant so it doesn't die within a couple of years.

      If you're not overclocking, why bother with the Black Edition? You could save some cash getting something with fixed bus.

    3. Maes

      Maes

      People said stuff about :
      Activation


      That's why cracked/VLK releases are for. Even if legally own XP and Vista, I prefer using "overcl0xx0rz 1337 h4xx0rz" releases to avoid the PITA of reactivating. Do a handful of "major" changes like GFX, RAM disk and you're out, not good if you are constantly experimenting with hardware like me.

      Since they shoved a copy of XP (and now Vista/7) down yo ass every time you buy a new laptop, you might as well use an up-to-date VLK slipstreamed installation with the latest SP, instead of a shitty "system restore" disk or a wimpy, service pack 0 level POS that needs phone activation. The license has been paid for anyway.

    4. ReFracture

      ReFracture

      Yeah if you change hardware often then going legit is more trouble than it's worth.

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